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Preface

01. Equipment
02. Gripping sticks
03. Turning Level
04. Ski-ing Level
05. Herring-Boning
06. Skating Turn
07. Traversing Uphill
08. Snow-Ploughing
09. Half Snow Plough
10. Snow Plough Turns
11. Stem Turn
12. Stem Christie
13. Transfer Weight
14. Stop Christie
15. Telemark Turn
16. Brief Survey
17. Downhill
18. Downhill Running
19. Negotiating Bumps
20. Tempo Turn
21. Slalom
22. Armwork
23. Flush
24. Hairpin
25. Waxing
26. Wrong Waxing
27. Training Exercises
28. Conclusion

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25. Waxing

When you are ski-touring the better the glide you get on your skis, the more effortless your progress will be.  For this reason, when in doubt.  It’s a good tip to have your skis on the slippery side rather than on the tacky side.

In choosing the type of wax to use, snow conditions are all-important.  It’s always useful to get to know various types of wax.  You this right by putting more the same wax under your skis.

If your skis tend to slip back, you can as a rule put this right by putting more of the same wax under your skis.
A good under layer, such as impregnating with a tar compound, is very important. I his under layer makes the sliding surface of the ski waterproof and dry, and provides a basis for other kinds of waxing

How to choose your wax:

Types of wax *            Snow conditions

TØRR NVSNØ               Dry,   cold   new   snow.    Snow   Calling   with   the

temperature  well  below.

BLANDINGSFØRE         For   temperatures   just   below    zero, old   mow

(‹‹ Mixed ››)     which   has   been   affected   by    a   spell   of    mild

weather.

SKAREVOKS   («Crust   wax>)    Granulated snow.

KLISTERVOKS Various   types   of   old   snow.    Damp   to   wet

Snow, but not saturated.

SKAREKLISTER            Hard crust.

VATSN0KLISTER         Wet  grainy   snow.

Standard  Norwegian wax.

For downhill and slalom the aim is to wax your skis so that your speed is maintained from start to finish. Melt the wax in a tin. and apply lo the skis with  a  brush.

For downhill running the wax should be applied unevenly, i.e. in dabs here and there, but each dab should be smoothed out.

In this way the skis will lend to overcome suction, and you will gel a better  glide.

Before applying wax. be careful to remove all old wax. either with steel wool or  with petrol.

Your skis should be lacquered several times with even layers. I he lacquer should be allowed to dry for each layer. After each coal has been applied, smooth  the surface down  with  a  rag.

Varnish of lacquer is an excellent base, but as a rule it won't give you lop   speed   unless   used   with   other   waxes for this reason we use downhill wax. Paraffin wax will give the best speed, but it tends to wear off during a long descent. On very cold snow ii is ineffective, and should be replaced by graphic wax.

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