1. Equipment

To get the maximum enjoyment out of ski-ing, it is very important to have the right son of equipment

The actual make of ski, etc., is not necessarily decisive. But what is important is the choice of equipment best suited to the kind of skiing you intend to do.

The pictures in this book illustrate the most suitable equipment [or touring, as well  as  for  downhill  running  and  slalom.

For towing.

The touring ski is the type most used in all sorts of snow conditions and when traveling across varied country.

Beginners would do best to choose a Fairly pliant ski. Heavily-built skiers should choose  longer  and  rather  stiffer   skis.

Length: With the arm raised vertically above the head, the tip- of the skis should reach as far as your palm. A good average  width   is:   3"  at   the  point  of   curvature,  narrowing by about half an inch where the bindings are situated, and widening to 2½" at the back.

Steel or aluminium edges, mounted along the bottom edge of the middle of the ski, are a great advantage.

Bindings: As a rule the best binding for touring is an ordinary slalom binding, which can be converted to a touring binding by

 running the cable under lugs set on either side, under the toe-iron. This provides a useful and practical combination of touring and slalom binding.

Ski sticks: These should be light, strong, and reach from the ground  to the armpit.

Boots: These should be roomy, but not too long. Aim to get a pair that fit snugly round the ankle, have soft uppers, and sole-, that are not too stiff. Single lacing is preferable. The  heel  should  have a groove  to  take  the  cable  or  binding.

For running and downhill.

Skis: Somewhat stiffer than ordinary touring skis. Good longitudinal spring. They should reach to the flat of the raised hand. Suitable width — just under 3½" at the bend, narrowing to 2¾" at the binding, and widening very slightly towards the end of the ski. Steel edges should be mounted along the entire underside of the ski.

Kin dings: Stout cable binding, with throws in front of the toe-irons. Lugs should be mounted alt of the toe-irons, to enable the cable, passing under the lugs, to keep the heel well  down.

Sticks: Light, stout bamboo or steel sticks are best. They should be about the same length as ordinary touring sticks. The leather straps should be strong, and should fit snugly round the wrists.    Baskets  should  be  comparatively  small.

Boots: These should have stiff, almost rigid, soles, usually reinforced with a steel plate. Double lacing round the ankle and  instep.    Reinforced heels,  with  a  groove for the cable.

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